How to Plant Strawberry Plants

Strawberries are one of the most satisfying fruits to grow at home. They don’t need much space, they’re quick to establish, and they reward your effort with sweet, sun-ripened fruit. Whether you’re planting into beds, containers, or hanging baskets, the process is simple—but a few key decisions at the start will make a big difference to your success.

Getting Started

Strawberry plants are usually sold as bare-root runners or potted plants. You can plant them in early spring or late summer, depending on whether you want fruit the same year or are preparing for the next season. Bare-root runners are best planted while dormant, from late autumn through to early spring. Potted plants can go in at almost any time as long as the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged.

Choosing

There are three main types of strawberries: summer-fruiting (June bearers), everbearing, and alpine. Summer-fruiting varieties produce one large crop over a few weeks. Everbearers give smaller but more frequent harvests from summer into autumn. Alpine strawberries are small, wild-like fruits ideal for borders and shady spots. Choose based on how often you want fruit and how much space you have.

Preparing the Ground

Strawberries like free-draining soil rich in organic matter. Pick a sunny, sheltered spot and dig in compost or well-rotted manure a few weeks before planting. Avoid areas where potatoes, tomatoes, or previous strawberry crops have been recently grown to reduce disease risk. Raised beds or containers are perfect if your soil stays wet or heavy.

Sowing

Strawberries are not typically grown from seed unless you're experimenting or growing alpine varieties. Most gardeners use young plants or runners. If you do sow from seed, start indoors in late winter, surface sowing onto moist compost. Expect a long wait for fruit—seed-grown plants usually won’t produce a full crop until the second year.

Planting

When planting, make sure the crown of the strawberry plant (where the leaves emerge) is level with the soil surface. If it’s buried, it can rot; if it’s too high, roots can dry out. Space plants about 30–40cm apart with 45–60cm between rows. Water them in well and mulch around the base to suppress weeds and retain moisture.

Plant Care

Keep the plants watered, especially in dry spells and while the fruit is forming. Feed with a balanced fertiliser in spring, then switch to a high-potash feed once flowers appear. Remove runners during the growing season unless you want to propagate new plants. Mulch under fruiting plants with straw or matting to keep berries off the soil and reduce rot.

Harvesting

Strawberries are ready to pick when they are fully red, firm, and fragrant. Harvest every couple of days during peak season to keep them coming. Gently pinch the stem above the fruit rather than pulling, which can damage the plant. Pick in the morning when it’s cooler, and store berries in the fridge if not eaten right away.

Problems

Common issues include slug damage, grey mould, powdery mildew, and attacks from birds. Use netting to protect fruit, water at the base to avoid fungal disease, and keep the area weed-free to improve airflow. Rotating crops every few years can also help reduce the risk of soil-borne diseases.

Timing Affects Yield

If you plant in late summer or early autumn, the plants have time to establish strong roots before winter and will usually give a better crop the following year. Spring-planted strawberries may still produce fruit, but the yield might be smaller in the first season.

Rotate Every 3 Years

Strawberry plants tend to decline in productivity after about three years. To keep yields high and reduce disease build-up, rotate to a new growing area every three years and replace old plants with fresh ones.

Runners Can Drain Energy

While runners are useful for propagation, they take energy away from fruit production. If you’re focused on getting the best crop, pinch off runners as they appear. Only allow a few to grow if you want to create new plants for next season.

Lift Fruit Off the Soil

Using straw, black plastic, or specially made strawberry mats under the fruit keeps berries clean and reduces rot. This also helps discourage slugs and soil-borne diseases from reaching the fruit.

Refresh Mulch Annually

Organic mulch breaks down over time and should be topped up every spring to maintain moisture levels and suppress weeds. If you’re using straw, replace it if it starts to go mouldy or compact.

Plant in a Staggered System

For a longer fruiting season, plant early, mid, and late-season varieties. This spreads your harvest over a few weeks and helps avoid a glut of ripe fruit all at once.

Good Air Circulation Is Key

Crowded plants are more likely to develop mildew and mould. Keep spacing generous and regularly remove any yellowing or damaged leaves to improve airflow.

Water Deep, Not Often

Shallow watering encourages surface roots. Water thoroughly and less frequently to encourage deeper root systems, which are more resilient during dry periods.

Birds Love Them

Birds are a top threat to ripening strawberries. Use netting or fleece over the top of your plants, especially in open garden beds. Just make sure the net is taut and well secured so birds don’t get trapped.