How to Take a Cutting from a Plant

Propagating plants from cuttings is a simple, low-cost way to grow new plants using healthy stems from an existing one. It’s a rewarding process that works well for many garden favourites including lavender, rosemary, hydrangeas, and soft-stemmed houseplants. When done properly, cuttings develop roots and establish themselves as independent plants. The key is choosing the right cutting, using clean tools, and giving it the right growing conditions to thrive.

When Is Best to Take Cuttings

The best time to take plant cuttings depends on the type of plant, but for most softwood or herbaceous plants, spring and early summer are ideal. This is when plants are actively growing and their stems are full of energy, which helps new roots form quickly. For semi-ripe or hardwood cuttings, late summer into early autumn can also work well. Avoid taking cuttings during a plant's dormant period or when it's stressed by extreme weather.

What Tools Do I Need to Take Plant Cuttings

To take cuttings cleanly and safely, you’ll need a sharp pair of scissors or secateurs, a small container or pot, and a clean surface to work on. Using sterilised tools helps prevent the spread of disease or rot, which can ruin your efforts before the cutting even begins to grow. You may also want to have rooting hormone on hand, which can encourage faster root development, although many plants root well without it.

Prepping the Correct Soil

The right soil mix is crucial for successful rooting. Cuttings need a mix that retains moisture but also drains well to prevent rot. A good option is a blend of multipurpose compost mixed with perlite, sand or vermiculite. This ensures a balance between air and moisture around the roots. Avoid rich potting soils designed for mature plants, as these can hold too much water or feed the cutting too heavily before roots have formed.

What Size Pot Do I Need for Cuttings

A small pot is ideal for starting cuttings. It should be just big enough to hold the cutting upright without too much extra space around it. Too large a pot can lead to excess moisture sitting in the soil, which increases the chance of the cutting rotting. Choose a pot with good drainage holes to allow excess water to escape and prevent waterlogging.

Watering and Feeding

Water the cutting immediately after planting to help the soil settle around the stem. After that, keep the soil slightly moist but not soggy. Overwatering can suffocate new roots or cause rot. Do not fertilise the cutting right away — the focus at this stage is on root development, not top growth. Wait until the plant is well-established before introducing a diluted feed.

Ongoing Care for the Cuttings

Place your pot somewhere warm with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which can dry out the cutting too quickly. To maintain humidity, cover the cutting with a clear plastic bag or propagator lid, but make sure to lift it daily to allow air in and prevent mould. Keep an eye out for new growth, which is usually the first sign that roots are forming. Once rooted, the plant can be repotted or moved outside depending on its needs.

Is There a Specific Month of the Year to Take Plant Cuttings

There isn’t one universal month that applies to all plants, but generally speaking, April through July is the best window for softwood cuttings. Semi-ripe and hardwood cuttings tend to do better between late summer and early autumn. Timing is less about the calendar and more about recognising the plant’s growth phase — avoid taking cuttings during flowering or dormancy unless absolutely necessary.

Step by Step Guide on How to Take Plant Cuttings

Begin by selecting a healthy stem that shows no signs of disease or pests. Cut a section just below a leaf node, usually 10 to 15 centimetres in length, depending on the plant. Remove the lower leaves to expose the node where roots will develop, and trim back any overly large leaves to reduce moisture loss. If using rooting hormone, dip the cut end in powder or gel. Plant the cutting in pre-moistened soil, firming it gently to hold it upright. Cover with a clear plastic cover or place in a warm, sheltered spot. Monitor for moisture and signs of rot, and keep the cutting away from strong sunlight until new roots begin to form.

Timing Isn’t Just About the Season — It’s About the Plant’s Energy

A plant’s internal energy is constantly shifting. The best time to take a cutting is when it’s focused on growing leaves and stems, not flowers or seeds. That’s why pre-flower growth phases are ideal. If you take a cutting while a plant is in full bloom or stressed, it’ll struggle to shift that energy back toward root production.

Stem Thickness Matters

A common mistake is taking a cutting that’s too woody or too thin. For most plants, a firm but flexible stem is ideal. If it’s too young, it may wilt and rot. If it’s too mature, it may resist rooting. Feel the stem — if it snaps cleanly but isn’t brittle, it’s likely in the sweet spot.

Cuttings Can Come From Different Parts of a Plant

Depending on the species, cuttings can be taken from the stem, leaf or even root. For example:

• Lavender, rosemary, and fuchsias root well from stem cuttings.

• Snake plants or begonias can be propagated from leaf cuttings.

• Japanese anemones and blackberries can grow from root cuttings.

It’s worth researching what type of cutting works best for the plant you’re working with — one size doesn’t fit all.

The Cutting’s Orientation Is Crucial

Always plant the cutting the right way up. It seems obvious, but if you’re taking multiple cuttings or the stem looks similar at both ends, it’s easy to confuse top from bottom. Roots will not form if the cutting is upside down. A slanted cut at the base and a straight cut at the top can help you remember which end goes into the soil.

Lighting Makes or Breaks It

Many people keep cuttings in full sun thinking that’s best, but in reality, bright indirect light is ideal. Strong direct sunlight can dry out the cutting before it has a chance to root. If growing indoors, a north or east-facing window is usually best.

Don’t Rush to Pot Up

Even once roots start to show, give the cutting time to build a strong base before moving it. Potting up too soon can shock the plant and slow down growth. Wait until the roots are a few centimetres long and branching, not just thin starter roots.

Propagation Hormones Aren’t Always Necessary — But Can Help

Some plants root easily, but others benefit from the boost a rooting hormone can give. If you’re working with hardwood, semi-ripe cuttings, or slow-rooting species like woody shrubs, a rooting gel or powder increases success rates by encouraging callus formation and quicker root development.

Hygiene Really Does Matter

Any rot or infection spreads quickly in a confined, humid environment. That’s why using sterile tools, clean pots, and fresh compost isn't just good practice — it's essential. Fungal spores or bacteria introduced at the start can wipe out every cutting in one go.