When to Cut Back Lavender Plants

Lavender should be cut back twice a year in the UK—once lightly after the first flush of flowers in mid to late summer, and again more thoroughly in late August to early September. The timing depends on the variety and the climate, but the goal is always the same: to shape the plant, encourage new growth, and stop it becoming woody and bare at the base.

When and How to Prune Lavender Plants

Lavender responds well to pruning, but timing and technique matter. For English lavender, prune after flowering in late summer, cutting back to just above the woody part of the plant. For non-hardy types like French or Spanish lavender, pruning should be lighter and only done in spring after the last frost, as they’re more sensitive to cold. Always use sharp, clean shears and avoid cutting into old wood unless you’re tackling woody stems with care.

Why Cut Lavender Back

Lavender naturally wants to grow tall and woody. Without pruning, it becomes leggy, with fewer flowers and a tendency to collapse. Cutting it back keeps the shape compact, encourages bushy regrowth, and stimulates more blooms the following year. Pruning also improves airflow, reducing the risk of fungal diseases.

Pruning Benefits

Regular pruning makes lavender more productive and attractive. It extends the life of the plant, prevents it from splitting or sprawling, and helps maintain a neat, rounded shape. Well-pruned lavender is less prone to disease and tends to bloom more profusely. Plus, the cuttings can be used for drying or propagation.

When to Prune

In the UK, the best time for a main prune is late summer, after the flowers have faded but before the cold sets in. This gives new growth time to harden before winter. A lighter trim can also be done in spring to remove any winter damage and neaten the shape. Avoid pruning too early in autumn or too late in spring, as it can stress the plant.

Instructions

To prune lavender, wait for a dry day and remove spent flower stalks along with around one-third of the current year’s growth. Always leave some green shoots—don’t cut into the brown woody base unless rejuvenating an older plant. For shaping, trim evenly all around the plant to maintain a rounded dome. Dispose of diseased or soggy growth and compost the rest.

Pruning Woody Lavender

Older lavender plants can become woody at the base and sparse on top. While lavender doesn’t regrow from old wood easily, a slow, careful approach can help revive it. Cut back part of the plant to where green shoots emerge, doing this in stages over a couple of seasons. If the plant doesn’t bounce back, it may be time to replace it with a new one.

Should Lavender Be Deadheaded?

Yes—deadheading lavender keeps it tidy and can encourage a second flush of blooms, particularly in English varieties. It also stops the plant putting energy into seed production. Just snip off the spent flower heads above a pair of leaves and remove any straggly stems.

What Happens If You Don’t Prune Lavender?

Neglecting to prune lavender leads to woody stems, fewer flowers and a misshapen plant that’s more likely to split or collapse. Over time, it becomes harder to rejuvenate, and the plant may need replacing altogether. Regular pruning keeps it vigorous and flowering year after year.

Know Your Lavender Type

Not all lavender is the same. English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is the hardiest and responds well to a hard prune in late summer. French and Spanish varieties (Lavandula stoechas and Lavandula dentata) are more tender and should only be lightly trimmed after flowering. They’re best pruned in spring to avoid cold damage. If someone’s unsure what type they have, the leaf shape and flowering time can offer clues—English lavender tends to have narrower leaves and blooms earlier.

Avoid Cutting Into Dead Wood (Mostly)

Lavender doesn’t regenerate well from old, woody stems. If you cut too far back—into sections with no green shoots—you risk losing that part of the plant. The rule of thumb is to never cut below the last flush of green growth. That said, you can do light rejuvenation cuts on woody plants in stages, focusing on the greenest parts each year. Slow recovery is better than risking a full dieback.

Late Pruning Risks

Pruning too late in autumn can stimulate new growth just before frost arrives, which leaves the plant vulnerable to cold damage. New shoots are soft and won’t withstand freezing. Aim to prune well before the first frost (usually by mid to late September in most parts of the UK).

Spring Clean-up Still Matters

Even with a solid summer prune, lavender can benefit from a light spring tidy-up. Remove any winter-killed tips or leggy growth, but keep it minimal—just a quick shape-up before new growth kicks in. Avoid heavy pruning in spring as it may delay flowering.

Use the Clippings

Don’t throw away your lavender trimmings. Flower stalks and leafy stems can be used for drying, homemade sachets, oils, or even culinary use if the variety is suitable. The scent remains strong even after the flowers fade.

Lavender in Pots Needs Extra Attention

Lavender grown in containers tends to age faster and become woody more quickly. Prune it consistently to maintain shape and encourage regrowth. Container plants also benefit from repotting every few years and having the root ball refreshed to prevent decline.

Shape Matters

The best shape to aim for when pruning lavender is a tight, rounded mound. This ensures even growth from the base and prevents the plant from flopping open. It also protects the centre from exposure and weather damage.

Final Tip: Don’t Wait Too Long to Start Pruning

The sooner you begin annual pruning—ideally from the plant’s first or second year—the better the long-term results. Early and regular cutting sets the structure and encourages a fuller, healthier plant right from the start.